Grenada

Grenada smells like nowhere else in the Caribbean. Nutmeg, cocoa and cinnamon drift from plantations that still work the old way, and touring one, then tasting chocolate made metres from the tree, resets your standards permanently. The island looks the part too: a crumpled green interior of rainforest, crater lakes and waterfalls you can swim beneath, ringed by beaches like Grand Anse, two miles of soft sand with barely a jet ski in earshot. St George's may be the prettiest harbour town in the region, its horseshoe of red roofs climbing from a yacht-filled lagoon. Underwater, the world's first sculpture park grows coral on human forms. Grenada has luxury resorts now, but it has kept its soul: fishermen still sell from boats, and Friday nights still mean Gouyave fish fry.