Cambodia

Angkor Wat at sunrise earns its fame all over again every single morning. But the moment that tends to stay with people is quieter: a crumbling temple an hour later, strangler figs gripping the stones, and nobody there but you and the cicadas. We plan Angkor with private guides who know which gate to use and when, so you meet the ruins without the crowds. Beyond the temples, Cambodia keeps giving. Phnom Penh is energetic and moving in equal measure. The Mekong drifts past stilt villages and floating markets. Down south, islands like Koh Rong offer sand as fine as anywhere in Asia at a fraction of the fuss. Cambodians have a gentleness that colours the whole journey. You arrive for the temples and leave attached to the people.